How to install infrared underfloor heating under tiles - installation instructions

Connecting wires

Electrical wiring diagram for underfloor heating

The connection of several strips of heating foil is done in parallel using a junction box. In the case of using a film with a grounding layer, the grounding wire is connected bypassing the thermostat (connection to the grounding layer is carried out using a separate terminal). It is recommended to use an 8-fold junction box with a minimum depth of 25 mm. After connecting the wires, perform a proof test of the system.

Gently lift the protective layer and insert one connector plate so that there is reliable contact with the busbar.

After connecting the connectors to the two copper rails, first squeeze the clips with your fingers, and then with the pliers.

Strip the end of the wire and clamp it securely into the barrel connector of the connector with pliers.

Insulate the copper busbars with 50 x 40 mm butyl rubber tape. Copper busbars with connected wires are insulated with two pieces (top and bottom).

The busbar sections free from connections are insulated with one piece of insulation.

It is necessary to thoroughly "wash" the contact point with your fingers, while the 25 mm wires should be covered with insulation.

The wires are laid along the perimeter of the room in the left 50 mm gap or in the groove cut out in the thermal insulation, starting from the film strip farthest from the back box. Secure the wires with special tape. It is not allowed to lay electrical wires over or under the heating foil. Route the wires from the heating foil to the thermostat or junction box.

Is it possible to mount a film floor under the tiles

To answer this question, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations regarding operation provided by the manufacturer. In particular, it says: "The product can fit under tiles, wood, laminate, linoleum, etc.".

Thin electric film underfloor heating under the tiles is installed quickly, does not "steal" free space and does not affect the quality of installation.

Since the heating system is resistant to moisture and atmospheric precipitation, you can lay the film outdoors, followed by facing with porcelain stoneware. This will permanently solve the problem of icing paths, heating the garage, etc.

Do-it-yourself laying of an infrared warm film floor under the tiles requires a certain professionalism and the availability of building material. Although the technology is fully and in detail described by the manufacturer, if in doubt about its capabilities, it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Installation

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Enlhkv0WhQY

To carry out the installation of an infrared warm floor, you will need the following tool:

• scissors;
• knife;
• glue spatula;
• tool for plastering work (putty knife, trowel, etc.);
• measuring tool (metal ruler, tape measure, square);
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• nippers;
• electrical devices (ohmmeter, tester, indicator screwdriver).

The foil floor under the tiles can be laid with your own hands, but with care to prevent damage to the infrared source and lead wires. We can recommend the following order of work:. Preparatory manipulations include careful leveling of the subfloor and cleaning it of debris

It is best to use a vacuum cleaner.Small metal objects (screws, screws, nails, etc.) are most dangerous. There should be no dents, protrusions, cracks or other defects on the surface. If available, a thorough putty and primer are required. Drawing up a plan for the arrangement of film elements over the floor area. An indent of the order of 35-45 cm is made from the wall. The zones where the installation of heavy objects is planned is clearly limited. The insulating film with foil coating is cut according to the plan by carefully cutting it into pieces of the required size. The heat insulator is placed on the base with the foil facing up. The edges of the film are connected with adhesive tape (scotch tape). Laying of a film underfloor heating is being carried out. Cutting is carried out strictly in the places indicated on the roll. A gap of about 6-12 mm is formed between the film elements. Overlapping stripes is not allowed. Sticky tape is glued along the gaps so that it is fixed on the foil layer of the heat insulator. At the ends, where the supply of electricity is provided, special terminals are fixed for connecting wires. They are carefully crimped on copper rails to ensure reliable electrical contact. Electrical connection of all laid elements of the underfloor heating is carried out in a parallel circuit. Exposed electrical connections are carefully insulated. The electrical circuit is mounted according to the instructions: laying of wires, temperature sensors. Scotch tape is applied over the wires. On top of the system, a plastic reinforcing mesh is laid over the entire floor surface. A screed is made of cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 7-10 mm. After it dries, you can lay the tiles.

1. Preparatory manipulations include careful leveling of the subfloor and cleaning it of debris. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner. Small metal objects (screws, screws, nails, etc.) are most dangerous. There should be no dents, protrusions, cracks or other defects on the surface. If available, a thorough putty and primer are required.
2. Drawing up a plan for the arrangement of film elements over the floor area. An indent of the order of 35-45 cm is made from the wall. The zones where the installation of heavy objects is planned is clearly limited.
3. The insulating film with foil coating is cut according to the plan by carefully cutting it into pieces of the required size.
4. The heat insulator is placed on the base with the foil facing up. The edges of the film are connected together with adhesive tape (tape).
5. Laying of a film underfloor heating is being carried out. Cutting is carried out strictly in the places indicated on the roll. A gap of about 6-12 mm is formed between the film elements. Overlapping stripes is not allowed. Sticky tape is glued along the gaps so that it is fixed on the foil layer of the heat insulator. At the ends, where the supply of electricity is provided, special terminals are fixed for connecting wires. They are carefully crimped on copper rails to ensure reliable electrical contact.
6. Electrical connection of all laid elements of the underfloor heating is carried out in a parallel circuit. Exposed electrical connections are carefully insulated.
7. The electrical circuit is mounted according to the instructions: laying of wires, temperature sensors. Scotch tape is applied over the wires.
8. On top of the system, a plastic reinforcing mesh is laid over the entire floor surface.
9. A screed is made of cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 7-10 mm. After it dries, tiles can be laid.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=3lMEuuRt-zg

The infrared floor under the tiles creates the necessary warmth and comfort in the room, and without disturbing the appearance of the floor covering. You can install it under the tiles on your own, for which you just need to follow the instructions and accuracy.

Necessary materials

Standard complete set of film underfloor heating system

• Thermal film in a roll;
• Contact clamps;
• Set of wires;
• Self-adhesive bituminous insulation.

• Heat-reflective insulation;
• Heat-resistant polyethylene film;
• Thermostat and mounting box for it. It is selected based on the selected power of the underfloor heating and the type of installation (built-in or overhead);
• Additional thermal sensor, if necessary (one will be included with the thermostat);
• Double sided tape;
• Additional wire for mounting the thermostat. It may also be needed if you are installing several sets of underfloor heating in one room (you will need to add their power to calculate the cross-section). The wire cross-section is selected depending on the power of the system and the material of the purchased wire (see table).

How to mount and connect a film warm floor with your own hands

2017-12-22 Evgeny Fomenko

The technology for installing a film underfloor heating is perhaps one of the simplest among all types of underfloor heating. And, without having special skills, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. It is often used as the only source of heating, but if you live in latitudes with harsh winters, it may not be enough.

The infrared floor can be used under almost any floor covering. Regardless of the surface under which we are going to lay it, the materials used do not change much. But there are slight differences. For example, if we lay under linoleum or carpet, then in order not to damage the film, we will have to use solid cushioning materials.

While under the tile you will have to make a cement screed on a reinforcing base. These floors are installed without preliminary surface preparation, it is enough just to carefully insulate the floor so that the heat rises up and does not go into the floor. Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay an electric floor heating under various materials.

So, for a parquet board or under a laminate, the pie looks like this:

• Primary gender.
• Heat-reflecting material.
• Thermal film layer.
• Polyethylene film.
• Plywood or fiberboard. These plates are used to protect the heating element from mechanical damage.
• Linoleum.

Well, and, perhaps, the most time consuming option is to lay it under the tiles. But for all the complexity of installation, this option is the most effective heating method. Because the tile heats up quickly and can keep the temperature longer.

Infrared film warm floor

In order to understand exactly how a high-quality tape floor differs from other varieties on the market.

Let's take a closer look at its main distinguishing characteristics:

They are absolutely safe for humans, the element that conducts heat in them is carbon. Thanks to this system, you will be able to create comfort and keep warm in your home, your loved ones will be less sick and you will forget about frozen feet forever.

This type of heating is more useful for our body, infrared radiation is widely used in many areas, for example, in medicine. How much does it cost - this is perhaps one of the most expensive heating options, but it fully justifies its cost.

Installation of underfloor heating from foil

In order to understand how this system works, you need to understand in detail its structure. It is made of a dense thin film (polyester), broken into segments and filled with carbon paste (carbon), applied by spraying.In the more expensive version, it fills the entire space completely and has a pasty consistency.

When exposed to electricity, it emits infrared radiation. The current is supplied through copper / silver wires that are connected to the power supply. The degree of heating is controlled by a thermostat connected to the floor. And he, in turn, reads the readings from the thermal sensor, which is located on the outside of the film.

To save electrical resources, it is more profitable to connect an automatic thermostat, it independently determines the most favorable operating time. This is currently relevant as electricity prices have risen dramatically.

The package includes the following components:

• Thermal insulation material that directs heat outward, and does not warm up the ceiling of the neighbors.
• Gasket material.
• Installation diagram

Consider the installation scheme for a film warm floor, namely, how to lay it on your own, I do not resort to the help of specialists, we will figure out which side to lay.

For a good connection, you need to do the following:

The entire installation, subject to the instructions, will take about 3 hours if the floor is laid under linoleum or laminate. If you have not dealt with an electrician up to this point, it is better to seek the help of a qualified technician. Since, not all errors can be corrected, and the material is quite expensive.

How film coatings work

The film coating uses a carbon or graphite heating element. Another option for such a floor is that the film is completely covered with carbon.

Film infrared floors are laid under the tiles, on a previously cleaned and leveled surface. The film is connected to the mains, and thanks to the infrared radiation, the surfaces in the room begin to heat up. This type of underfloor heating can be used as an auxiliary or even as the main heating system for a room.

Characteristics of infrared heaters

The temperature of IR floors can be easily adjusted. The maximum heating is set to 50 degrees, but this is not necessary. As a rule, the temperature is set at 21 degrees.

The system requires a voltage of 220 V, and the maximum energy consumption is about 250 W / m2. With thermoregulation, the energy consumption per square meter is 35-85 W.

As you can see in this layout, the heating is divided into separate zones. At the same time, no heat is supplied under the bath and shower, and why waste energy and money on them.

Advantages of an infrared floor

The advantages of IR floor over other technologies are as follows:

1. Ease of installation. Such a system is easy to install, especially when compared to a water floor.
2. Low IR film thickness. It does not affect the height of floors and tiles.
3. Autonomous work. The heating system works automatically. It turns on and off by timer and constantly maintains the required temperature.
4. Low cost of materials.
5. Long service life.
6. The efficiency of infrared floors is 20% higher than that of other types of underfloor heating.
7. There is no need for additional system maintenance.
8. If an individual element of the system is damaged, the rest continue to work. This is possible thanks to their parallel connection.

Disadvantages of infrared systems when laying them under tiles

This technology also has its drawbacks, although there are much fewer of them than advantages:

1. High loads on the floor can lead to mechanical damage to the heating elements.
2. High energy consumption resulting in high electricity bills.

Important! Although infrared heating requires high energy costs, they are much cheaper to install than other systems. In addition, no additional maintenance is required during operation.

Types and types of fastening of quartz vinyl panels

There are several ways to connect tiles:

1. With glue locks. Each tile has 4 adhesive strips: 2 outside and 2 inside. Thanks to them, the panels are connected to each other. The gap between them is invisible, even by touch it is very difficult to determine. It is necessary to lay this type of panel on a flat surface. In the reviews, many write that it is not necessary to remove the old coating, the main thing is that the base is even.
2. Installation with glue. In this case, the quartz vinyl tile does not have any locks and is attached with special glue to the base of the floor. This material is attached only to a perfectly leveled surface, preferably to a cement screed treated with a primer mortar.
3. Glue method. The entire back of the quartz vinyl panel is coated with a compound that provides adhesion to all types of surfaces. According to reviews, most use this method of fixing tile material.
4. Groove method. It is like a tile connection, with a spike on one side and a groove on the other. An even subfloor surface is also required for this coating.
5. Lock connection. The basis for it is plastic, with spikes located along the edge in such a way as to be fixed in special locks that are located on the adjacent panel. For the installation of tiles with a lock connection, a flat surface is required, since this material is not flexible and plastic enough.

The process of installing tiles on a heated floor

The underfloor heating system for absolutely all floor coverings is composed of the following elements:

• material for thermal insulation at the bottom of the structure to direct heat and cut off cold surfaces;
• special pipes for the heat carrier;
• reinforcing mesh and pipe fastening elements;
• concrete screed;
• vinyl tiles for flooring.

Calculations of the location of the contours of heating pipes are made in advance. Their number is limited by the capacity of the heating boiler for heating a specific volume of liquid. One circuit - no more than twenty-five running meters of the heating pipe.

They propose to do the work in the following order:

1. A thermal insulating layer is laid over the surface of the rough coating, and a damper tape is applied to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete.
2. For fastening pipes - guides. In the usual case, it is enough to lay the reinforcing mesh and fasten the pipes with clamps every twenty to twenty 5 cm. The fastening must secure the pipe, leaving room for thermal expansion.
3. Pipe installation near the walls is carried out at a distance of 70 mm.
4. The procedure for laying pipes provides for the outlet of the ends to the distribution manifold.
5. After pipe-laying work, a tightness test is carried out and the temperature of the liquid is brought to 20 - 25 degrees, a screed is made.
6. After the final screed has dried, prepare and lay the PVC tiles.
7. The surface of the screed is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, flaws are eliminated, and dust is removed.
8. Leave the tile indoors at a temperature of 20 degrees for a period of at least 12 hours so that it takes on size and straightens out.
9. Tiles with a locking fastening system and self-adhesive base will not be difficult during the installation process. Set from the far room corner with a ledge of each row by 1/3 or 1/2 lamellae. In this case, the projections of the following tiles are inserted into the grooves of the locks without excessive efforts. Self-adhesive tiles are straightened during installation to release air under the product and firmly adhere the coating.
10. The tile, the installation process of which is planned with the use of glue, requires a scrupulous selection of it, taking into account the operating temperature conditions.

Styling option

Having become familiar with the conditions and requirements for the installation process of the hydraulic system "underfloor heating", the owners of the premises will easily select the material that is suitable for floor coverings

from the point of view of aesthetics and practical use to solve the issue of energy saving. Of interest is the installation process of the underfloor heating system.
PVC tiles
... The primary costs for the purchase of equipment and installation work will be more than justified in a short time.

One of the options for laying a final vinyl tile flooring is shown in the material below.

Laying vinyl tiles

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Electric cable underfloor heating and PVC tiles

They represent a special mesh (cable mat) with a heating cable attached to it in a snakelike manner.
A cheaper option is also used, which implies the installation of only a cable that is fixed to the base. The system is heated by transforming electrical energy into heat.

It is impossible to lay PVC tiles directly on such a structure, since the installation of the latter requires an even base. Therefore, if you choose this type of underfloor heating, you will need to hide it under a concrete screed.

The advantages of this system include a more budgetary installation (compared to a water circuit), temperature uniformity along the entire length, the ability to install in rooms where the temperature drops to zero degrees (country houses, etc.).

Tiles and porcelain stoneware are very practical materials, but they are cold for walking barefoot. The underfloor heating system solves this problem and also provides additional room heating. At first glance, an infrared heated floor under the tiles is best suited, since it has the thinnest heating elements. But in reality, the film poses more problems than the benefits when laid in tile adhesive. In this article, we will look at how you can install infrared floor heating with your own hands.

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Preparatory work

As already mentioned, the installation of film heating under the tiles can be done by hand. Therefore, the first step is to choose a warm material. There are many options for tile film from different manufacturers. In any specialized store, consultants will advise you on the best options, or you can familiarize yourself with popular and demanded models on the Internet. Having decided on the option, we proceed directly to the execution of the work.

The advantage of underfloor heating under tiles without perforation is that their installation process is somewhat simpler. Someone installs them on a dry screed, while someone chooses other options. Here we will show you how to install an infrared heat-insulated floor under a tile in a cement mixture or using tile adhesive.

But it is not enough just to get a warm floor. Of course, you will need other elements for work: a thermostat, a heat-repellent coating, a wire in the required amount, installation tools. Well, and the material for the flooring is a tile that will lay on top of a warm floor, tile glue or a cement mixture. By the way, glue can also be purchased specifically for the installation of electric floors. It will have all the necessary characteristics and will allow you to efficiently cope with this type of work.

Locked Quartz Vinyl Tiles

When laying the interlocking tiles on the "warm floor", the condition must be met - leave expansion gaps along all walls from 5 to 10 mm. The gaps allow the tile to move as it expands so that the joints are not damaged.

Castle tiles Art
East
Recommended for use with electrical heating systems, it is not advisable to use water heating.Heating temperature no more than 28 ° C. In general, the interlocking tiles are sensitive to temperature extremes and change their size. The temperature gap must be kept at least 1 cm. This also applies to installations with "warm floors", and applications on balconies, rooms on the south side, where heating in the sun can occur.

The manufacturer advises against using any kind of underlay for the interlocking tiles, both during normal installation and when laying on a warm floor.

The brand has Art
East
there is one more
collectionARTSTONE
33/42 class, which stands out for its structure. This tile uses a rigid SPC board as the load-bearing base. This slab is a Stone Polymer Composite.

Unlike quartz-vinyl laminate with WPC (Wood Polymer Composite) board, STONE tiles from ART EAST:

78% consists of calcium carbonate and does not contain a blowing agent, wood flour and plasticizers;

thinner, but more durable, more resistant to dimensional retention with changes in humidity and temperature;

more durable due to the same denser structure.

ART STONE SPC is a stone-polymer tile with locks, the superiority of which over floors with WPC slabs has been confirmed by laboratory tests. All these characteristics make the Stone collection tiles the most suitable material for "warm floors" than other PVC interlocking tiles.

Tests show that ART STONE can withstand temperatures above 28 ° C. But the brand's representative recommends that you do not take risks and use this limitation during operation. Art Stone castle tiles can be used with any kind of floor heating systems.

PVC castle tiles Floor
Click
- in the composition of 30% quartz. Compared to other quartz vinyl coatings, it is soft. Floor Click quartz vinyl laminate with "underfloor heating" changes its dimensions and can also expand when installed in areas with intense sunlight (south-facing, with floor-to-ceiling windows, etc.). When laying, it is imperative to leave a gap of 1 cm. It is also advisable to perform expansion joints under the sills at the entrances to the rooms and every 8-10 meters of continuous canvas. Use a 1.5mm or 1mm LVT underlay. It is not recommended to lay on infrared heating, tiles can rise at the joints.

Castle tile collection Decoria

- the material is hard and quite stable, contains up to 70% quartz sand. The manufacturer advises to use a substrate when laying on a concrete screed, otherwise the floors will start to crunch. Permitted to use with heating systems, including film. Use with water systems where the temperature can exceed 28 degrees is not desirable.

It is possible to install the decor interlocking tiles with or without expansion joints (sills).

Tiles Alpine
Floor
locks can be placed on heating systems. It is better to use a cable type to regulate the temperature and keep it no higher than 28 ° C. A gap around the perimeter of 8-10 mm is required.

Benefits

The device has a number of advantages, including the possibility of using it in small rooms. Can large rooms be heated with it? The answer is yes, but the level of electricity consumed by the family will increase significantly. In large rooms, it is recommended to use the device as an additional source of heating.

List of advantages:

1. Underfloor heating works on the principle of convection, thereby warming up interior items and decor. This allows the room to be heated evenly and quickly.
2. The radiated wavelength is 4-15 micrometers, which allows the device not only to heat the flooring used, but also the objects in the room.
3. Dust will not rise, which is so necessary for allergy sufferers and people with small children. Their principle of operation differs from radiator heating, so dust will not rise into the air and move around the room.
4. To reduce costs, you should set the most optimal temperature regime.It is worth noting that the use of radiator heating implies the presence of a temperature of 25 * C in the room, while with infrared heating, an indicator of 20 * C will be sufficient and comfortable. Less warming up will require a reduced amount of electrical energy and will lead to savings in the family budget.
5. The available radiation is minimal. This figure is even less than that of cable devices.

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Advantages of a warm floor

Below we will consider, perhaps, the simplest underfloor heating - an ik floor for tiles.

Its advantages are as follows:

1. The air in the room does not lose its freshness, because this type of heating does not affect it in any way.
2. An infrared warm floor under the tiles, emitting long wavelengths, heats not only the surface of the floor itself, but also the entire body of a person who is currently walking on it.
3. This method of transferring heat allows it to be re-released from previously heated objects, which increases the overall temperature in the room even more.
4. The content of negative ions in the air increases by at least 4 times.
5. During operation, the infrared film does not emit dust, noise and vibration.
6. The amount of generated electromagnetic radiation is so small that it can be neglected.
7. This type of heating is perceived by a person much more pleasantly at the initial low temperatures in the room than in the case of water heating.

So what is a film infrared heat-insulated floor laid under the tiles? By and large, infrared heating consists of a thin film 0.3-1 mm thick, equipped with an electrically conductive element inside. Below will be described methods of installing infrared floor heating under the tiles.

Underfloor heating cable

Infrared foil underfloor heating characteristics, calculation, connection diagram and installation

Cable floor heating can be:

• two or single-core cable,
• cable laid in mats;

In any case, such a cable or mats can be mounted in a screed, and tiles can be laid on top. Of course, the efficient operation of the underfloor heating cable will require some installation rules.

This system is connected to an electrical thermostat that allows you to adjust the temperature of the system.

Pluses of the cable system:

1. The cable is much thinner than the water pipes, so the floor itself will be thinner.
2. This heating system in any case does not depend on water heating, that is, from housing and communal services (housing and communal services).
3. monitors the temperature, so the system works economically.
4. If the thermostat shows the temperature, then you can set exactly the one you need.
5. The warm floor can be turned on and off at any time; when turned on, it will work quickly enough.
6. Since this warm floor has nothing to do with other residents of the apartment building, there are no prohibitions on it.
7. If you take a separate cable, then it can be installed not only in the floor, but also in the baseboard or in other places inaccessible to other heating systems.
8. The breakdown will not affect your neighbors in any way.

Cons of the cable system:

1. Dependence on electricity, electricity is cut off quite often.
2. If the cable burns out, you have to open the entire floor. Most likely, the cable will have to be thrown out, although this is at the discretion of the owner.
3. Comparative high cost of the cable. Of course, you can take any wire, calculate the resistance and temperature that you should give out, put on a protective sheath, but this is all for skillful hands and a sober head.
4. The high cost of electricity.

Cable floor covering
Installation of the cable system:

1. Correct installation implies thermal insulation from floor slabs, that is, from the neighbor's ceiling. In this case, laying the foil does nothing, although it is recommended.You just need to lay a layer of good heat insulator.
2. On top of the heat insulator, you can make a screed, or put gypsum fiber boards (gypsum fiber boards), or other suitable material. Mount directly on the insulation, if it is foam or polystyrene is undesirable, since the layer of the subsequent screed is rather thin.
3. If a single-core cable or mats are being installed, then it must be ensured that all the conclusions ultimately emanate and enter at the same point, at the connection point.

Underfloor heating installation

Laying the underfloor heating water circuit on an insulating material
When installing the underfloor heating system under PVC floor tiles, pipes laid in a screed are used. The installation process is as follows:

1. The concrete base is cleaned of debris; if necessary, local repairs are performed.
2. The overlap is leveled with construction self-leveling mixtures.
3. An insulating material is laid on the base with a foil layer upward.
4. A damper tape is fixed around the perimeter of the room.
5. The pipes are laid according to the chosen scheme - "snail" or "snake". Special plastic hooks are used to fix the contours. Also, pipes can be laid on a reinforcing mesh, to which they are attached with plastic braids.
6. The system is connected to a manifold, filled with water and checked for functionality.
7. Pipes are poured with a coupler, after turning off the system. It will be possible to turn it on only after the solution has completely dried.

If it is not possible to pour the screed, for example, on a wooden base, the pipes are laid dry. In the boardwalk, channels are cut out for pipes, and after their laying, a flat plywood base is mounted under the quartz-vinyl tiles.

Underfloor heating and PVC tiles

It is a complex, closed structure consisting of pipes, a pump, a distribution manifold, valves, fittings, an air vent, and fasteners.
One of the main advantages of this model is the minimum heat loss. In addition, it is environmentally friendly, does not create electromagnetic radiation (unlike electric floors).

Most often they are installed in private houses, cottages, since the installation of a heating boiler is necessary. In apartments - hydraulic compatibility with the pre-installed heat exchange system of the room is required.

Water models are demanding on the thermal conductivity of finishing materials. In this context, PVC tiles are the best choice.

The disadvantages include the risk of leakage, labor-intensive installation.

Vinyl adhesive tiles

Vinyl tile is a fairly soft material. When heated, the tile expands greatly. Resizing can be affected not only by the floor heating system, but also by exposure to direct sunlight. Still, some manufacturers consider it possible to use their vinyl tiles and floor heating systems.

For example, a company Tarkett

gives the following instructions:

Do not install Art Vinyl tiles on a heating system that does not ensure that there is no condensation on the substrate.

Avoid the heating temperature of the base surface above 27 ° C.

Before installing modular tiles, the heating system is turned off 3-4 days before the start of work.

Installation is carried out at a room temperature of 15-28 ° C, optimally at 20 ° C.

The heating system is connected no earlier than 72 hours after the end of the installation.

Experience has shown that when heated above 27 ° C, Tarkett, Forbo vinyl tiles become soft, therefore we, as experts, do not recommend laying vinyl tiles on a “warm floor”. We believe that this material can diverge at the joints and deform under the influence of heat.

Laying the film floor under the tile with your own hands

At the initial stage, preparatory work is carried out. The surface is cleared of debris and leveled.The thickness of the underfloor heating can be up to 1.5 cm.The approximate sequential layer of the materials to be laid is as follows:

• heat-reflecting substrate - 2-3 mm;
• infrared film - 0.4-0.5 mm;
• painting net - up to 2 mm;
• a layer of concrete mortar (or tile adhesive).

You immediately need to decide on:

• the location of the thermostat;
• efficient distribution of the film under the tiles.

The installation of a warm floor begins with the installation of a heat-reflecting substrate. The best option would be to use strips, the size of which is 0.6 m each. In case of purchasing wide material, it should be cut off.

An infrared film is laid on top of the substrate. There are such requirements when performing this work:

• stationary furniture should not be placed on the film (it can lead to burnout of the system);
• the film should cover up to 70% of the area in the room;
• the presence of an indent from the walls at the level of 10-12 cm;
• the film is not overlapped.

It is more expedient to distribute the film along the maximum length of the room. The marked heating material is cut off. It is recommended to cut pieces of film in places where there is no graphite layer. If, nevertheless, it is necessary to cut it off along the graphite layer, then this place is subsequently insulated with scotch tape or electrical tape. The film is attached to the substrate with adhesive tape.

Next, you need to start connecting the film floor

Particular attention is paid to the correct installation of the thermostat and temperature sensor. Immediately it is worth making a reservation that one thermostat will be able to normally "serve" a room with an area of ​​12-15 m2

It is installed next to the supplied wiring.

The cable is fixed to the film using copper clamps. The degree of reliability of the connections is checked using the halves of the clamps, which must be in contact with each other. Bitumen tape and silicone sealant are used to insulate the clamps.

While the sealant dries, the thermostat is mounted. When using an overhead device, the cable is led outside the wall and placed in a plastic box. If the thermostat is built-in, then a hole is hollowed out in the wall for it and grooves are made for the cable.

The thermal sensor is mounted under the film. For this, a groove is made in the base, and the sensor itself is placed in a corrugated tube. The sensor wire is laid in such a way that it is located directly under the tiles.

The thermostat is securely attached to the wall and connected to the electrical cable. Foil tape is glued obliquely to the film. To ground the floor, one of its ends is connected to a wire.

With the help of a test switch-on of the heating system, its operability is checked. All sections should warm up for 5-8 minutes. Using a tester, the cuts and joints of the film are checked.

Further, the underfloor heating is laid in the following sequence:

• holes are made;
• dowels are inserted into them;
• the painting net is attached with self-tapping screws;
• a thin and uniform primary concrete screed is created;
• complete drying of the screed occurs;
• the last check of the functioning of the warm floor is carried out;
• a fixing screed is applied;
• after it dries, tiles are laid.

Screwing in self-tapping screws when attaching the painting net should be done very carefully. They can damage the surface of the film or contacts, which will cause an electrical circuit break. After the final fixation of the mesh, it is necessary to test the underfloor heating.

When laying the film floor, it is prohibited:

• carry out work at high humidity and air temperature below 0 ° C;
• use nails as fasteners;
• connect the film without grounding;
• bend it at an angle of 90º on an area up to 5 cm long;
• install the film in close proximity to other heating devices.

In order to avoid mechanical damage to the film, it is recommended to carry out installation work in soft shoes. You can use the infrared warm floor after about a month, when the concrete base under the tiles is completely dry.

Video on the installation of the film floor:

Underfloor heating under tiles - electric, infrared, cable and film, laying and installation

A floor tiled with ceramic tiles, with all its pronounced advantages, still has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, the point is that the surface can become slippery, especially when moisture gets on it. And three times - the ceramic coating can not be called a warm material. Walking on it with bare feet or in home shoes in winter can be very uncomfortable, especially when leaving, for example, from the shower or bath.

Electric underfloor heating under tiles laying technology

The first negative point can be avoided by immediately selecting a ceramic coating for rooms with a special, non-slip surface. The second problem also has a solution - it is an electric heated floor under the tiles, the laying technology of which may differ slightly, depending on the type of heating system chosen. The work of installing an electric underfloor heating is not an easy task, but nevertheless, it is quite accessible for independent execution by a neat and diligent owner of an apartment or house, without the involvement of specialists.

What are the advantages of an electric floor heating?

The content of the article

1 What are the advantages of an electric underfloor heating 2 How to prepare for laying a warm electric floor 3 Cable-type underfloor heating 3.1 Types of heating cables for underfloor heating 3.2 How to calculate the required amount of cable 3.3 The process of installing a cable underfloor heating under the tiles 4 Mesh heating mats 5 Installation of a rod infrared warm floor for tiles6 Video - Film infrared floor for ceramic tiles

Heating of the floor surface, tiled with ceramic tiles, can be carried out by installing water circuits, or by using one of the existing electric heating systems. Both the one and the other type can be used both as the main source of heat and as an additional one, which increases the comfort of the premises.

Water-heated floor, of course, wins in terms of economic operation - it can even be connected to an existing central heating system if certain conditions are met. But the cost of its installation and the scale of the work is incomparably higher than any of the electrical ones. In addition, electric heating has a number of other undeniable advantages:

Any water heating circuit requires a massive screed. If we also add the diameter of the pipes themselves, then the rise in the floor level turns out to be very significant, which is far from always permissible in the conditions of city apartments. It is impossible to disregard the additional loads on the floors that arise at the same time. But some electric underfloor heating does not require a screed at all. The installation of an electric underfloor heating itself is much easier. There is no risk of hidden coolant leaks - the possibility of flooding of the lower neighbors is excluded. Electric underfloor heating does not require rather bulky and expensive adjusting equipment. Yes, and they are much easier to fine-tune. No negotiation procedures with utilities are required - the main thing is not to go beyond the allocated power supply limit for an apartment or a country house.

Electric floor heating creates the most comfortable conditions for residents - an evenly heated surface gives off heat, which rises upward, with a gradual decrease in temperature as the height increases.

Comfortable temperature distribution with underfloor heating in comparison with classic radiator or collector heating

Ceramic tiles, laid on top of the heating system, turn into a capacious "accumulator" of thermal energy - it is pleasant to walk on them with their shoes on, and the heated layer of tiles gives off heat to the room most evenly.

There are several types of underfloor heating that can be installed under ceramic tiles. The installation technology of each of them has its own nuances. Nevertheless, there are many similarities, especially in terms of the preparation of the room and the required tool.

How to prepare for installing a warm electric floor

The first thing that draws attention is the degree of insulation of the base floor. If electrical energy is spent on absolutely unnecessary heating of a floor slab or a floor laid on the ground, then the owners will simply go broke paying bills for consumed kilowatts. Usually, warm floors are laid on a base that already contains a layer of thermal insulation in its structure - this is especially important for private houses or for apartments where an unheated room is located below. Under favorable conditions, some technologies for the installation of electrical heating can be limited to a thin foil thermal insulator. Second, the floor surface must be repaired. It makes no sense to lay the heating system and then - ceramic tiles, if the surface has significant irregularities, cracks or cracks, areas of instability or looseness of the old screed. Thirdly, a power supply line of the required power with a mandatory grounding circuit must be connected to the room, to the place of the planned installation of the thermostat. For it, a separate machine should be provided on the switchboard, and, preferably, secure yourself by installing a protective device - an RCD. For questions about wiring the line, it makes sense to contact a qualified electrician. The next question is the purchase of a thermostat with a temperature sensor. In the overwhelming majority of cases, they are not included in the underfloor heating set, but without them, its work is impossible.

A thermostat with a sensor is not included in the standard set of electric underfloor heating

The thermostat can be chosen to your taste - with electromechanical or push-button control, with LED or LCD indication, with various designs and colors, etc. Usually, all these devices are designed to be installed in a standard socket for an outlet or switch.

You also need to take care of the set of tools:

Underfloor heating installation always implies electrical work. You will need a tool for cutting wires, stripping insulation. Before switching the wires in the thermostat, it is advisable to tin the ends - which means that you need a soldering iron and the necessary consumables - solder, flux. It is best to use a construction hairdryer to shrink the heat shrink tubing. By the way, although a set of underfloor heating usually includes a certain amount of "heat shrinkage", it would be nice to have at least a small reserve of your own. In the floor and on the wall, you will need to cut out grooves - for this you need to have a "grinder" with a stone disc and a perforator. the electrical circuit will need to take control measurements - the total conductivity of the circuit and its resistance - which means that a multimeter is needed. It is also recommended to check the insulation resistance - this is done with a special device - a megohmmeter.

Multimeter (left) and megohmmeter

General construction work is also ahead: sometimes it is the filling of the screed, and in any case, the laying of ceramic tiles. This means that all the necessary tools must be prepared - a mixer (nozzle for a drill) for mixing building mixtures and a container for these purposes, spatulas - ordinary and notched, as a rule, rollers and brushes for applying a primer, accessories for marking and control - a tape measure, a ruler, building level, marker or pencil, etc.

Some tools will be required in any case, others - depending on the chosen technology for laying the warm floor. This will be discussed in more detail below.

Underfloor heating cable type

Types of heating cables for underfloor heating

To begin with, we will consider the underfloor heating system with a heating cable. First of all, it is necessary to decide on its type, since the cable can be single-core, two-core, or with a semiconductor matrix.

The single-core option is one of the most inexpensive. The conductor is heated according to the usual resistive principle, just like the spiral of an iron or heating element.

Single core heating cable structure

The price for such cables is not high, but it is also very inconvenient to work with them. The main difficulty is that both mounting ("cold") ends must converge at one point - at the place where the thermostat is installed. Considering that cable crossings on the floor are strictly prohibited, this makes it very difficult and sometimes even restricts the possibilities of laying.

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A two-core cable is much more convenient in this regard.

The closure of the chain here is ensured by the presence of an end sleeve, there is only one "cold" end, and this makes the laying process much easier. In the role of a "spiral" in different models can act as one conductor, or both at once.

Resistive type two-core cable

The main disadvantage of both mentioned cables is the simultaneous and equal heating along the entire length, which is not always convenient. And yet, the circuit itself excludes the performance of the heating system in the event of a break in any section of the heating cable

Semiconductor self-regulating cable is an innovative development.

The structure and principle of self-regulation of a semiconductor cable

Metal wires here act exclusively as conductors, and heating occurs in a semiconductor matrix located between them. Moreover, the higher the temperature in a particular area, the lower the conductivity of the semiconductor, and the lower the energy consumption. Thus, the possibility of overheating is excluded, the economy of the system's operation increases sharply.

A semiconductor self-regulating cable is still a very expensive "pleasure", and if we consider the options from the standpoint of "price - quality - ease of installation", then a two-core resistive cable becomes the best choice. It will be discussed below.

How to calculate the required amount of cable

Work always begins with planning a cable layout scheme, a place for installing a thermostat and connecting to a power supply.

It is never planned to lay the cable under stationary pieces of furniture - for the correct operation of such a system, constant heat exchange with air is required, and in its absence, the cable can overheat and fail.

An approximate layout of a heating two-core cable

The distance from walls and furniture should be at least 50 mm, and from heating devices (for example, radiators or convectors, heating risers, etc.) - by less than 100 mm. It is strictly forbidden to plan laying with the intersection of the cable. to be guided by the fact that the cable should cover about 70 ÷ 75%! о (MISSING) t of the total area of ​​the room.

The main planning parameters are the required cable length and the pitch between adjacent loops. These values ​​must be calculated based on the laying area (S), the required amount of thermal energy for effective heating (Qs) and the specific thermal power of the selected cable model, calculated for 1 meter of its length (Qkb). Where do you get these values?

S is easy to find by measuring the sections on which the cable will be laid, calculating and summing up their area. The value of Q s is taken equal to:

- If a warm floor is the only source of heating, then 180 W / m² in the case when the room is located "on the ground" or above an unheated room, and 150 W / m² - if there is a heated room below.

- If underfloor heating is considered as an additional source of heat, these values ​​will be 130 and 110 W / m², respectively.

Specific thermal power of the cable Qkb, W / running meter, is necessarily indicated in the technical documentation of the product.

The calculation is carried out according to two formulas:

The required cable length is:

L = S × Qs / Qkb

Given the length value, you can also find the cable laying pitch - the distance between the parallel laying loops:

N = 100 × S / L

In order not to bother site visitors with independent calculations, a special calculator has been placed, designed to quickly and accurately determine the cable length and laying pitch:

Go to calculations

Calculation of the length of the heating cable

Enter the requested values ​​and indicate the planned functionality of the “underfloor heating”.

Use the slider to set the calculated area for laying the heating cable in sq. m.

Choose the functional purpose of the "warm floor"

The main source of heating. Floor on the ground or above an unheated room The main source of heating. Downstairs there is a heated room. Additional heating source. Floor on the ground or above an unheated room Additional heating source. There is a heated room below.

Enter the nameplate value of the specific heat output of the selected heating cable model (W / m)

Underfloor heating cables are not sold by the meter - they are produced in an assortment of standardized lengths with installed connecting and end couplings. Therefore, it is necessary to select the closest length from the model range according to the obtained value.

By the way, it can happen that with a large area of ​​the room, the estimated length will exceed the possible options available on sale. In this case, you will have to split the floor into two sections, and for each, make your own calculations based on its area. Each circuit in this situation must have its own thermostat.

When we decided on the length of the cable, it remains to find the distance between the turns (laying step):

Go to calculations

Enter the cable routing area again

Enter the length of the selected heating cable set

After carrying out the necessary calculations, it remains to accurately, to scale, draw a cable layout diagram in order to be guided by it during the installation process - and you can start practical work.

The process of installing cable underfloor heating under the tiles

Mesh heating mats

Special heating mats have become very popular. In fact, this is the same heating cable, but already laid and fixed on the fiberglass mesh with a certain pitch.

Mesh heating mats are very easy to install

The price for such kits is slightly higher than for cables, but on the other hand, laying is easier, and you can do without a screed from above at all - tiling directly on the laid mats.

Laying planning is generally the same as described above. Mats go on sale with the expectation of different areas of the insulated floor - this should be taken into account when planning and purchasing a set. They can also differ in terms of specific heat transfer. Comparison of these two parameters - the area and the required thermal power, will help you choose the right kit.

Foil insulation does not fit under such mats - therefore, the issues of thermal insulation of the floor must be thought out in advance.

Installation of underfloor heating with mesh mats is carried out in the following order:

The advantage of this technology for laying a warm floor is the fact that it is possible not even to dismantle the old tile flooring. It will be enough for better adhesion to process it with an abrasive, giving the necessary roughness for adhesion of the glue, or even simply treat it with a special primer "Betonokontakt". Thus, you can quickly and without tedious dismantling work and renew the ceramic coating, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen, and give it all the qualities of a warm floor.

You may be interested in information about what constitutes a pump-mixing unit for underfloor heating

Installation of a rod infrared underfloor heating under the tiles

Another type of electric underfloor heating, perfect for further tiling with ceramic tiles, are infrared rod mats.

An innovative approach - infrared rod mats

They are two parallel conductor buses, between which with a certain pitch are placed heating elements 0 rods made of a special material that has the property of becoming a source of infrared radiation under the influence of a passing current, which transfers thermal energy over a distance. Each of the rods is completely independent, and even the failure of one or more will not disrupt the overall performance of the underfloor heating system.

Moreover, the rods have the property of self-regulation - the higher the temperature, the lower their energy consumption. When the maximum heating is reached, they are simply "locked" - this gives considerable energy savings. It is important that such rod mats can be placed over the entire area of ​​the room, regardless of the installation of pieces of furniture - they are not threatened with overheating. And in the future, you can carry out redevelopment, rearrangement in the interior, not at all fearing that this will damage the work of the warm floor.

Schematic diagram of switching infrared rod mats

A schematic diagram of the installation of such a floor heating system is shown in the figure, and the laying technology itself will be discussed in the table below.

1 - heating rod.

2 - conductive tires.

3 - switching wires.

4 - special switching terminal connection.

5 - "cold" wires. They can be pre-installed or also require independent switching.

6 - terminal insulating sleeves.

7 - thermal sensor.

8 - thermostat.

9 - mains power supply cables.

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It must be mentioned that there is another type of electric heat-insulated floors - infrared film type. Frankly speaking, such a floor heating system as an infrared warm floor for laminate, linoleum, carpet, parquet or solid board is more suitable.

Film infrared heating element

Film elements are not combined with ceramic tiles very well. Firstly, it is difficult to ensure a reliable adhesion of all layers - the subfloor, tile glue and tile - there is simply nowhere to cut windows in the film, and small holes will not provide good contact. Secondly, whatever you say, a cement-based layer significantly reduces the unique performance properties of such infrared heaters.

Nevertheless, craftsmen find ways to use infrared floors and in "alliance" with ceramic tiles.For example, sheets of waterproof plasterboard are laid on top of the mounted film floor. Gypsum weakly resists infrared radiation, therefore, the tile receives a reliable, even base, and the loss of infrared heating properties is not so significant.

Another option is to pour a thin reinforced screed over the infrared film elements, which will become the basis for laying the tiles. A similar technique is well shown in the proposed video:

Video - Film infrared floor for ceramic tiles

Benefits of using quartz vinyl flooring and underfloor heating

1. Thermal conductivity. Quartz vinyl tiles keep you warm.
2. Fast heating. Due to the small thickness of PVC tiles (up to 7 mm), heat spreads quickly and evenly.
3. Environmental Safety. There are no harmful and toxic additives in the structure of quartz vinyl: there is no emission when heated.
4. Anti-static. Static voltage does not accumulate on the surface, PVC tiles do not conduct current, it is absolutely safe together with a film heating system.
5. Stability. Quartz vinyl withstands temperature changes without consequences.
6. Versatility. Quartz vinyl tile of adhesive or lock type is compatible with all types of heating, except for infrared film type.

Pros and cons of floor heating with quartz vinyl tiles

Quartz vinyl tile has good moisture resistance
Quartz vinyl tile is a modern finishing material that has the following advantages:

• Layering. Each layer is made from environmentally friendly raw materials. When heating a warm floor, the finishing coating does not emit harmful substances into the environment.
• Moisture resistance. Such a floor covering is universal and can be used in rooms with high humidity. This is convenient, since electric floor heating is often installed in the bathroom.
• Wear resistance. If we compare the coating with a laminate, it corresponds to the 32nd class in terms of wear resistance.
• Practicality. The coating is easy to care for, does not absorb dirt and can be cleaned with simple detergents.
• Fire resistance. This material does not burn and does not support a flame, therefore it can be used in rooms with high fire safety requirements.
• High thermal conductivity. A system with such a coating will evenly heat the room.
• Soundproofing properties. The multilayer structure dampens shock waves and noise up to 19 dB.
• Maintainability. The individual element can be easily removed and replaced with a new one. You do not need to call the master for this. During the operation of the electric underfloor heating, it may be necessary to replace the cable section. The finishing coat is disassembled during the repair and reassembled after completion

The adhesive method of laying vinyl tiles makes it difficult to dismantle

Like any other material, quartz vinyl has disadvantages:

With the glue method of installation, it will be difficult to dismantle the tiles. The surface of the quartz vinyl laid on a concrete base is cool and uncomfortable to the touch

Therefore, a warm floor in such conditions will be more than appropriate. Gaps are formed between the tiles - this is the main difference from roll materials. It is important to carefully level the base before tiling. Otherwise, all its defects will be visible.

Operational advantages and disadvantages

The use of a simple method of operation and design provides an infrared underfloor heating with a wide range of applications, an understandable technology for laying and connecting to the regulating unit.

General scheme of the device for laminate, linoleum or parquet board

Among the technical features and operational advantages, the following points can be highlighted:

• ease of installation - the technology of the device provides for dry laying. Work can be carried out at any time, at any stage of finishing and renovation of the premises.The presence of several types of systems allows installation under most floor coverings;
• small volume - the small thickness of the infrared film does not contribute to a noticeable increase in the total thickness of the floor. The maximum thickness after installation does not exceed 1-2 cm and depends more on the cladding than on the installation of an infrared floor;
• uniformity and speed of heating - the relative inertness and materials used for manufacturing allow you to achieve maximum efficiency in just a few minutes. Infrared long waves provide the most uniform heating with a temperature difference of no more than 4-8 ° C between the floor and the ceiling;
• unpretentiousness - the design of the heating elements in the form of a film allows the installation of underfloor heating in rooms with high load and traffic intensity;
• savings and safety - ease of installation and installation provides significant savings, especially in comparison with the traditional water-based floor heating. The radiated waves and the electromagnetic field do not have a harmful effect on human health and life.

If dismantling is required, the IR film is rolled into a roll, the sensor and thermostat are removed, which makes it easy to re-lay in a new place or in another room, spending money only on building mixtures and some consumables.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the need for inspection by fire safety authorities when installing underfloor heating in industries, commercial or functional premises.

The second disadvantage includes the consumption and consumption of electricity, which increases with an increase in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe room. For example, the average consumption of an infrared floor per 1 m2 is 40 W / h. With an area of ​​50 m2, energy consumption will leave 2 kW / h, which is equal to 6-7 rubles. With an increase in the area to 150, the costs will increase to 18-21 rubles.

That is, this may not be attributed to significant disadvantages, however, when heating large areas, it is better to use an integrated approach with the use of water floors, central heating, insulation of load-bearing elements and good glazing.

Ways of laying a film warm floor

As a rule, when laying a warm floor with power supply, three methods of their location are used:

1. Flooring directly under the flooring, as in the case of a film floor.
2. Location in the thickness of the screed, on which the finishing coat is laid after it dries.
3. Installation of electric underfloor heating on top of a screed under the tiles.

If the floor screed is in perfect condition, you can install the warm floor under the laminate or linoleum directly on it, which will significantly save time for additional work. When laying a cable electric floor in a kitchen, bathroom or on a loggia, the heating elements are hidden in the thickness of the screed, having previously laid a thermal insulating layer.

In the case of laying underfloor heating in two-story houses, where floor insulation on the first floor is completed, additional screed and thermal insulation are not required. Ceramic tiles laid on top and a thick layer of glue will serve as protection for the warm floor. True, you should first check the instructions for it.

Installation of a warm film matte floor

Infrared underfloor heating advantages and disadvantages, main characteristics and installation principle

Film electric floor has a variety of sizes and power for heating. For large rooms, films with a width of more than one meter are better suited.

The selection of the film floor should be carried out taking into account all the features of the room. These factors include the type of building and the climatic characteristics of the region in which construction work is carried out.

Considering mainly these factors, the necessary heating film is selected for the tile.In the process of installing warm film floors, insulation is also used. A sheet cork can act as it.

It is very important to correctly calculate the required cross-section and footage of the wire. After that, you need to calculate the required power of the thermostat, taking into account the fact that one square meter of heating film requires about one hundred and fifty watts

Laying parquet boards on a warm floor

It is enough to multiply this figure by the area of ​​the heated room in meters. The end result is the total capacity that the system will need. The device must be purchased taking into account this indicator.

Next, you need to understand the size of the working area for the heating system. Usually this figure is equal to seventy-five percent of the total area of ​​the room.

In order for the useful heat to go only towards the floor covering, before laying the heating film, you need to cover the dry base with a heat-reflecting material. All connections of this layer must be fixed with tape.

The heating foil can be laid on any convenient side. The main thing is that unused contacts must be isolated.

Cutting the product into certain pieces should be carried out only along the section lines. After that, the temperature sensor is installed.

It is placed in a recess under the foil not far from the thermostat and is attached to the heating foil with tape. When installing a heating foil under a tile, the sensor must also be positioned under this ceramic layer.

In order for the film not to move, it must be fixed with adhesive tape to the heat-reflecting material laid on the floor.

It is advisable to install the thermostat near the existing wiring system of the room. If necessary, you can lead a separate line to the thermostat directly from the current meter. This will help prevent network congestion.

The regulator can be connected directly or switched on by means of a socket. The latter option is more convenient, since in the event of a breakdown of the device, the heating system can be easily and quickly disconnected from the network.

The connection of wires under the tiles should be carried out strictly according to a previously developed scheme. The heating foil is connected in a parallel way.

In other words, cables are only connected to one side of the room. In order not to confuse the connection sequence, it is better to use two-color wires.

Underfloor heating installation scheme

Each individual cable of a specific color is connected to only one terminal of the film. It is best to connect the cable with pliers and a hammer. To do this, the terminal is laid on the film, and then pressed tightly until it fully adheres to the copper conductor.

After securing the cable, it is imperative to install insulators. If high humidity is often observed in the room, then you need to use a special sealant. After collecting the entire system from the films, the wires coming from it are connected to the thermostat. To connect them, it will not be superfluous to look at the instructions for the thermostat.

Next, the heating system is connected to the network under the tile. Before starting the system, it is necessary to take into account the power of the system and, if necessary, draw a separate line for the heated floor with an automatic machine. This is especially true if the power of the system has more than two kilowatts.

When connecting the heating system under the tile to the network, in addition to working on heating, the reliability of the insulation is checked. To do this, using a probe, the presence of insulation on the cut lines is determined.

After checking the functionality of the system, tiles can be laid. In order for ceramic products to hold tightly, a special fiberglass mounting mesh is laid on the heating film before laying them. The cells of this grid should be two to four centimeters.

It is best to locate the wires leading to the warm electric floor system under the baseboard. You can also hide the wiring by making a groove in the wall and plastering it.

Is it possible to lay the film floor under the tiles

Infrared underfloor heating is intended primarily for "dry" installation under laminate, linoleum, PVC tiles, carpet. To attract customers, many manufacturers claim that their film can be laid in a screed or tile adhesive under the tiles.

There are 3 main reasons why you shouldn't do this:

First, the film has poor adhesion. If you immediately pour a screed on it or lay tiles, it will turn out to be floating. Because of this, the concrete will have an empty sound when tapped, and if something heavy is dropped on the floor, then the screed may crack at all.

Sometimes, for better adhesion of the mortar to the top layer, they try to make many cuts and serifs. But imagine how difficult it will be to isolate it all. Moreover, you need to insulate reliably and durable, so that later you do not break the tile if you start to be shocked by leaks and the RCD will constantly work.

• Secondly, the composition of the film itself. All tile adhesives and screeds are alkaline. Over time, polyester film (PET) will erode, regardless of the thickness or number of layers. In the best case scenario, you will get short circuits and sparks from exposed electrical connections.
• Third, there are rod and cable electric floors that are ideal for under-tile installation. When installing them, you do not need to invent or invent anything, they are specially made for "wet" installation.

But there are several installation options, which are discussed below.

Methods for installing IR coatings under tiles

There are two technologies for installing an infrared floor under a tile: dry and wet. The first option assumes that the IR film will not come into contact with concrete. Wet installation of an infrared floor is the pouring of concrete over heating elements. Let's consider how to mount a warm floor in each of the ways in more detail.

Dry method

Dry installation is carried out as follows:

1. Preparation of the premises. First, we remove all the debris and dust. Pits, cracks and bumps must be leveled and covered. If there are a lot of cracks, you can make a new concrete screed using self-leveling mixtures. Next, we mount the waterproofing membrane. If a waterproofing membrane is used, then the joints are necessarily sealed with putty or wide tape. The membrane is mounted with an overlap of 12 cm.
2. Thermal insulation. Installing insulation is important to prevent heat leakage. For this, it is recommended to use insulation with a foil surface, which repel up to 90% of heat (isolon, penofol, etc.). This will help make the floor insulation as effective as possible.
3. Installation of IR-film. It should be remembered that the IR-film has its own characteristics, and to prevent difficulties during operation, all work is carried out strictly according to the instructions, especially the connection of the supply wires of the heating elements. The film is laid neatly, at a distance of at least 10 cm from the wall. The elements of the heating film should not touch each other either. To do this, a gap of 5-7 cm must be left between them.
4. Installation of a protective layer. This is necessary to protect the IR film from mechanical stress. Even an ordinary plastic film can act as a protective layer. The main thing is that the material is not too dense - this can reduce the efficiency of floor heating.
5. Installation in the form of durable sheets. This stage involves the installation of a solid sub-floor on which the screed will be poured. For this, sheets of drywall, or chipboard panels are often used. During installation, be careful not to damage the IR film.

Important! Wood materials are less preferred.They do not transfer heat well, and this will lead to significant heat loss and a decrease in the efficiency of infrared floor heating.

1. Next, we move on to laying the tiles, while using the classic technology. Installation is carried out using a conventional adhesive mixture, which is applied to the tile with a notched trowel. When laying, be sure to use a building level so that the tiles lie flat, and a rubberized hammer.

Important! Do not place infrared film under furniture. This will negatively affect both the furniture itself (it will dry out faster) and the heating elements, due to poor air circulation.

Wet method

This method is better suited for installation under a tile of a film IR heater in terms of economy and ease of installation. But in safety, the wet installation method is much inferior due to the possible contact of the screed surface with heating elements.

Step-by-step instructions for laying in this way:

1. Floor preparation is similar to the dry method.
2. Laying insulation and infrared films. This stage is also carried out in the same way with the dry method.
3. Installation of protective film. For the wet installation method, this stage is the most important, because this is what affects the durability of such a floor. If the concrete solution gets on the heating elements, the service life is reduced by at least 30%. Choose a thick plastic wrap and carefully lay it on top of the IR film. The protective layer must be overlapped, we make a gap of at least 15-20 cm. The joints must be sealed with wide tape. For reliability, many lay the film in several layers.
4. Reinforcing mesh laying. For this, a masonry metal mesh or fiberglass painting mesh is used. The installation of the reinforcement must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the protective film.
5. Pouring concrete screed. If the screed is thicker than 5-10 mm, the efficiency of the IR heater drops sharply, so it is important to make a layer within these dimensions. To make the floors smoother, self-leveling ready-made mixtures are often used.
6. As soon as the floors are dry, proceed to laying ceramic tiles. The installation process is carried out in the classical way.

Infrared film warm floors and PVC tiles

They appeared on the market not so long ago, but have already gained considerable popularity. They represent a flexible, thin system, the functioning of which is based on long-range infrared radiation. The heating element is a hexagonal carbon nanolattice enclosed in two layers of polymer material and connected by silver-plated copper conductive buses.
Installation is quite simple, glue is applied to the leveled base, on top of which sheets of film floor heating are laid, and then another layer of adhesive is applied to the latter, on which adhesive PVC tiles are already laid.

The advantages include high efficiency, excellent thermal conductivity, excellent maintainability of the entire complex, both PVC coating and underfloor heating. In addition, the infrared spectrum is as close to the sun as possible, therefore it acts as a kind of "native" for humans from the point of view of physiology.

An undoubted advantage is that PVC tiles transmit radiation practically without loss, which determines the effectiveness of combining such a heating system with this type of finishing flooring. It is also worth noting the simple installation, which can be done by hand.

The disadvantages include significant energy consumption (especially in large rooms), heating furniture (without legs), dependence on a constant power supply.

How the device works

Most people have a lot of questions when choosing basic IR materials.However, the advantages and ease of use of each of the materials can be felt only after some time of their use. Experts also did not come to a common opinion. Installation of infrared underfloor heating is carried out exclusively on a previously prepared base. The choice of outdoor products available for use is also striking. The device can be used to heat any type of coating.

Thanks to the solid screed layer, the height of the room will decrease, which will affect its perception and comfort. The film device is not so economical when compared to the film counterparts of the tile floor. There are a number of specific features that make this type of device not so versatile when it comes to DIY installation under a tile. For a more detailed analysis, you should compare all types of similar devices that are used, including the tile material. Film coatings can be made from both bimetallic and carbon films.

Metal is strongly not recommended for use under tiles and ceramics. The principle of operation of the device is based on infrared radiation. The film itself is divided into separate sectors and each of them is equipped with its own heating elements. The terminals are connected to copper strips, and after connecting to the network, heat radiation occurs. Such radiation does not harm living organisms. It is not the air masses that are in the room that are heated, but individual objects. The air does not dry out due to the generated negative ions, which improve the microclimate of the rooms.

Advantages of quartz vinyl tiles

Quartz vinyl tiles are appreciated by many for their high strength and phenomenal durability. Among other things, due to the fact that polyvinyl chloride is part of this finishing material, quartz vinyl floor tiles acquire a natural warmth. In the reviews, buyers note that it is pleasant to the touch, unlike ceramic. The main advantages of quartz vinyl flooring:

1. Environmental friendliness of the material. No harmful substances are released even at high temperatures.
2. Quartz vinyl tile, reviews of which tell us that it does not absorb water at all, is widely used in rooms with high levels of humidity.
3. Fire resistance. Does not support the combustion process, that is, it is a self-extinguishing material.
4. High resistance to chemically active substances.
5. High level of wear resistance and, accordingly, durability, the service life of the tiles is 25 years.
6. Resistant to temperature changes.
7. Impact resistance.
8. Possesses sound-absorbing qualities.
9. Easy to maintain and repair. The tiles can be washed with any detergent. If repairs are required, individual tiles can be easily removed and replaced with a new panel.
10. Excellent aesthetic properties.
11. If you wish, you can make a "warm" floor under the quartz-vinyl tiles, there is no need to lay a substrate.
12. The material is non-conductive and antistatic.